Rittenhouse's L-shaped flue system of , which vented smoke out through a chimney. The cast-iron potbelly stove is easily recognizable by a huge bulge in its midsection that resembles, well, a potbelly. It first appeared around the s and quickly became associated with train stations, cabooses, and hunting lodges throughout North America.
Fueled by either coal or wood, the stove's enclosed firebox can churn out serious heat—some newer models are rated at around , Btu. They usually feature a cooktop than can be used to heat water or cook food. During the s many stove manufacturers were experimenting with wood-fired cookstove technology. These systems reached a pinnacle in the lateth century, and one of the more enduring models came from Canadian manufacturer Findlay Bros.
With its large cast-iron surface and elegantly enameled oven, the Findlay Oval cooked food, warmed water, and heated homes. Though one blogger admitted her vintage Oval "guzzles firewood like a starving teenager at mealtime," these stoves remain remarkably versatile. Today's version can produce 50, Btu per hour—enough to heat a square-foot home. It features 6 square-feet of cooktop surface, a porcelain oven big enough to roast a pound turkey, a warming oven, and an optional copper reservoir for heating water.
Whereas potbelly stoves, airtight stoves, and other similar systems capture heat from long, smoldering fires, masonry stoves rely on fast, hot fires that burn cleaner and produce fewer emissions. These stoves, which are often called by their German name, Kachelofen , feature complex heat-exchange passages that capture hot exhaust gases before they exit through the chimney. The resulting heat energy is stored in the stove's large masonry, ceramic, or plaster thermal mass and then released gradually over hours or even days.
Typically, their exterior surfaces are warm—not hot—to the touch, and some continue to radiate heat for hours after the fire has gone out. The oil embargo of encouraged a surge in sales of airtight wood-burning stoves that provided a more affordable alternative to traditional potbelly stoves.
The newer airtight stoves, however, would stay hotter longer thanks to openings that allowed the user to control the airflow, and therefore the burn. Once the wood was alight, the openings could be closed off almost completely, leaving the embers to glow hot for 8 hours or more. But there was a downside: The slower burn resulted in smoky stoves that were unnecessarily polluting.
By woodstove sales topped 1. Amid widespread concern about air pollution during the late s, the EPA began enacting stricter regulations to reduce woodstove emissions. As a result, highly efficient catalytic and noncatalytic airtight stoves were becoming increasingly popular by the early s. Coniferous wood is not suitable as a main fuel for your fire or stove.
There is a lot of resin in the bark, which can cause pollution in the fire or chimney. However, it may be useful to have some kindling from coniferous wood on hand, because it quickly catches fire. Pellets are a residual product of the wood processing industry. Pellets are made from waste such as prunings, sawdust and wood shavings. These wood residues are compacted under high pressure. This results in a fuel with a high combustion value. Burning pellets in a special pellet stove is extremely efficient and clean.
Very few ash residues are left in a pellet stove. Wood prunings can be an excellent fuel for your fire or stove. However, not every type of pruning wood is suitable as firewood. Poplar wood, for example, spreads an unpleasant odour. Maple wood gives off a sharp, pungent odour when burned. However, you can use pruning wood from suitable wood species without any problems. Make sure, however, that the pruned wood is sufficiently dry. The drying time depends on the type of wood and the conditions.
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What types of wood should I use in my wood-burning fire? Smoke moves up the flue in a swirling pattern, so round flues perform better than square or rectangular ones because there is little obstruction to the natural flow of smoke. In order for smoke to pass and drafts to develop adequately, flues must be sized in relation to stove capacity and chimney height. As a rule, flue size must be 25 percent larger than the size of the stovepipe, which connects the stove to the chimney. For example, a stove with an 8-inch diameter pipe would require at least a inch flue.
By installing a special chimney liner, you can convert an old masonry fireplace chimney for use with a wood-burning stove, but after the conversion is made, it cannot be used as a fireplace in general, only one solid-fuel-burning appliance can be connected to a chimney flue.
The NFPA recommends that each stove or fireplace be connected to a separate flue; this reduces interference between units and increases the efficiency of each stove.
Maximum burning efficiency is obtained when chimneys are located as close as possible to the stove unit, and when stovepipes are short and straight. The usual recommendation is to limit the length of connecting pipe between stove and chimney to 10 feet and with no more than two degree bends. Prefab chimneys are easier to erect than masonry, and will generally cost less than retrofitting a masonry chimney.
Prefab units are relatively lightweight so no heavy footing is required, and they can often be installed through a room corner. According to the University of Missouri Extension, tests by the National Bureau of Standards indicate similar performance for prefabricated and masonry chimneys when used under similar circumstances.
There are two types of prefab chimneys available today: the insulated unit and the triple-walled unit. Insulated units consist of an inner and outer layer of metal usually stainless steel with the space between filled with one or more inches of noncombustible insulation. Triple-walled units have three layers of metal and are designed so that air circulates between the outer two layers and removes excess heat — insulation is sandwiched between the inner two layers.
Check local codes and consult with a professional to determine the right prefab chimney for your situation. Wanting to get off the propane truck and utilize some of our free renewable wood for heating, we embarked on our own chimney-woodstove project.
We began by ripping out the cabinet and exposing the old chimney. A inch diameter hole was made in the chimney to accept the stovepipe, and a stainless steel insulated liner was run up the length of the two-story chimney.
Some repairs were made around the exterior of the exposed chimney, and a new chimney cap was installed. The next and most lengthy step was deciding upon and building the hearth. We originally wanted to use the limestone found in the fields all over our farm, but after realizing how this would require additional shoring up of the footing due to the weight, we opted for manufactured stone in order to cut our costs.
Once we selected the stone, our contractor crafted a lovely hearth and travertine floorboard for the stove to sit on. One unique feature our contractor, Mark Schafer, engineered was the travertine floor to sit flush with the existing hardwood floor, eliminating stubbed toes and traffic problems of elevated stove boards or hearths.
He carved out the wood floor and subfloor in a beautiful curved shape, installed two layers of cement board underneath, and placed travertine on top to satisfy code , cut in the same pattern. The complexity of codes that dictate fire-safe distances from combustible walls and surfaces was mind boggling.
Always use a conscientious contractor in conjunction with a certified chimney sweep to get this kind of job done.
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